The Gold Standard: 10K to 24K Explained
Gold has been dazzling humanity since at least the beginning of recorded history. The first evidence of human interaction with gold dates back to 3,000 B.C. in Ancient Egypt. Mankind’s love of gold likely began before even the written word, however many people still express confusion and uncertainty about this precious material.
As a custom fine jeweler based in New York City, I work with clients from all over. Whether from New York, London, Hong Kong, or anywhere else in the world, my clients often ask me to clarify on karat. So, I thought I’d write this article to provide a reference for them and anyone else interested in custom-made fine jewelry.
24K Gold: The Mints’ Main Squeeze
Custom Made 24K Gold Coin
Color:
Bright, rich yellow
Purity:
99.9%
Durability:
Soft and prone to scratching
24K gold is 99.9% pure, making it the gold standard (where the term comes from) for investment-grade bars and coins. Although bullion and conductors are made from 24K gold, most jewelry is not. 24K gold is too soft for everyday wear and will not be able to hold its form or polish for very long.
22K Gold: Ancient AU
22K Gold Ring with Imperial Topaz
Color:
Deep yellow, slightly less intense than 24K
Purity:
91.6%
Durability:
More durable than 24K but still pretty soft
22K gold was the karat of gold used to make many pieces of Ancient Egyptian jewelry. Tutankhamen’s Mask was found to be 22.5K when tested by archaeologists. 22K gold is so malleable that the Egyptians would make thin gold wire by beating it into thin plates, then cutting it into long strips and twisting it until it appeared round. 22K gold is still used to make jewelry today in many places like India and China. I recommend reserving 22K gold for earrings, necklaces, or rings that you plan to wear occasionally. 22K gold is still too soft to wear as a ring every day, especially if gemstones are set in it, because it will lose its shape from constantly being banged around.
18K Gold: Balanced Purity and Practicality
18KY Gold and Diamond Channel Set Band
Color:
Rich yellow, but not as intense as 22K and 24K
Purity:
75%
Durability:
Perfect for daily wear
18K gold consists of 75% pure gold and 25% other metals. Its rich yellow hue is softer than higher karat golds, but it is significantly more durable, making it ideal for high-end jewelry that can be worn regularly. This purity of gold is the best for setting gemstones because it is malleable enough to move easily while being durable enough to hold stones securely. 18K gold is my personal preferred gold alloy because it offers a beautiful balance between purity and practicality.
14K Gold: Popular Pick
14K Yellow Gold Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Color:
Warm yellow, often slightly lighter than 18K
Purity:
58.3%
Durability:
Very durable
The higher cost of gold has made 14K gold the most popular choice for jewelry in the United States. Its balanced composition provides an excellent combination of beauty, durability, and affordability, making it ideal for most jewelry. Gemstones can also be securely set in 14K gold, but more care is required when setting softer stones in 14K gold because it is less malleable.
10K Gold: Beauty on a Budget
10K Gold Coin
Color:
Pale yellow, sometimes with a slight dullness
Purity:
41.6%
Durability:
Highly durable, very resistant to scratches
10K gold is the minimum karat that can legally be sold as "gold" in the US. 10K gold is very hard, making it more resistant to scratches but rather brittle. I recommend it more for sculptural or engraved rings but would stray away from it if you plan on setting gemstones into it. This makes 10K a great choice for things like class rings and costume jewelry.
Conclusion
Choosing the right gold alloy is a matter of personal preference, practicality, and budget. Whether you seek the pure opulence of 24K gold or the practical charm of 10K, there is a gold alloy to meet your needs. At Poh Jewelry in New York City, we specialize in creating custom jewelry that perfectly suits you. Contact us to schedule a consultation and allow us to guide you in selecting the ideal gold alloy for your next masterpiece.
Comment in the section below if you have any questions regarding gold karats, jewelry in general, or just want to share your favorite things about jewelry.
